My TripAdvisor Review No.657: Darjeeling Himalayan Railway, West Bengal.

Iconic Attraction Of Darjeeling.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway (DHR) is one of the iconic attractions which draws many tourists to the hill town of Darjeeling in West Bengal. This 2 ft narrow gauge train hauls passengers and goods from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling, a winding and uphill track covering a distance of 88 km. It is one of the three railways designated by the UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name of ‘Mountain Railways of India’.

If you are a lover of trains and locomotives then a ride on the DHR is a must do. However, if like us, you want to get to the top in a hurry then it is better to do the journey from Siliguri or Bagdogra by car or van. A road journey takes only 3 hours whereas the rail trip will take all of 7 hours or more if there are any delays. The train, pulled by a diesel locomotive, travels at a much slower pace and you have ample time to enjoy the views of the tea gardens and the mountain-scape along the way, taking photos from your carriage window. The sights, sounds and smells from a toy train, sitting with your kids is an experience in itself. The train also does some amazing loops and reversals of tracks to negotiate the bends.

There is another option too, if you want to enjoy a shorter ride. You can book a two hour joy ride from Darjeeling to Ghum, which is the highest railway station in India at 7407 feet. This train includes the to-and-fro fare and a 30 minute halt at Ghum where you can visit the DHR Museum. The joy ride has the option to select the steam locomotive or the diesel, which is cheaper. However, most of this two hour trip is through the congested hill town itself, passing very close to the houses and the town traffic. There is also one steam train which has only ordinary compartments, travelling from Kurseong to Darjeeling.

Another, but not so romantic way, is to just visit the train stations, or the loco sheds and see the DHR heritage trains from close quarters, taking snaps and waving out to the passing passengers.

Date of experience: March 2020

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My TripAdvisor Review No.656: Darjeeling Toy Train.

Heritage Train.

The Darjeeling Toy Train has been one of the iconic attractions drawing tourists to this hill town in the Himalayas. It is one of the three railways designated by the UNESCO World Heritage Site under the name of ‘Mountain Railways of India’. It runs on a 2 ft. narrow gauge track, from New Jalpaiguri to Darjeeling, a distance of 88 km.

There are still some steam locomotives being used by the Railway, but most have been converted to diesel. If you are doing the full journey from New Jalpaiguri or Siliguri to Darjeeling then it will be pulled by a diesel loco. If you want to enjoy a steam loco ride then it is better to do the joy ride tourist train from Darjeeling to Ghum, or take the ‘Red Panda’ from Darjeeling to Kurseong. The special steam tourist trains are hauled by the vintage British built B-Class steam locomotives.

We went to the loco shed near Darjeeling station to get a close up view of the steam locomotives and how it operates. It is just opposite the road from the station.

Date of experience: March 2020

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My TripAdvisor Review No.655: Darjeeling Clock Tower.

Neglected Heritage Structure.

The Darjeeling Clock Tower located at the junction of Gandhi Road and Ladenla Road is now a much neglected heritage structure and has not kept up with the times, literally. It is still a prominent landmark of the city and the building on which it stands houses the Darjeeling Municipality. The Chowk market and the Mall market are at walking distance from the tower.

The 100 foot high stone tower along with the town hall was built around the year 1920. The hall is big enough for 600 people, there was a reading room and a square. The clock tower has four faces just like the Big Ben, an octagonal gable roof and a flag staff on top.

Date of experience: March 2020

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My TripAdvisor Review No.654: China Hut Restaurant, Gandhi Road, Darjeeling.

Good Tibetan And Chinese Food.

China Hut is a very good Tibetan and Chinese food restaurant located on Gandhi Road, very near to the Darjeeling Clock Tower, just before the Mall market. The ambience of the restaurant is also very nice both inside and outside, and the predominantly red colours of the décor and furnishings looks very attractive. They have outdoor seating as well but we chose to dine inside as the climate was quite cold. It was quite cosy inside, with about 6 tables with sufficient distance between them.

We ordered the Tibetan delicacy of Thukpa. Both the Chicken Thukpa and the Veg Thukpa was very tasty with not too much spices, but with lot of shredded chicken and vegetables. We also ordered Fried Veg Wonton as starter and we liked it so much that we ordered one more of it.

Prices were reasonable and the service was good.

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My TripAdvisor Review No.653: Sandakphu, Singalila National Park, West Bengal.

Trekking Destination With Himalayan Views.

The trekking route to Sandakphu, the highest peak in West Bengal, runs through the Singalila National Park. The southern entry point to the park is at the Forest Check Post at Manebhanjang, 51 km from Darjeeling. We have to pay the entry charges at the check post, which was about ₹100 per head per day in March 2020 when we went. Forest and trek guides can be hired from the town. The 32 km trek route from Manebhajang to Sandakphu (height about 11,930 feet above mean sea level) and Phalut (21 km from Sandakphu) can be done over 2 to 4 days depending on the route, weather and your capacity to trek, and an equal number of days for the return.

We decided to do the Jeep Safari, with a bit of trekking. We had to hire a 4 wheel drive Mahindra Jeep or a 1960s vintage British make Land Rover, with an experienced driver from the Manebhanjang Land Rover Association. The Jeep can cover the 32 km uphill climb in 4 or 5 hours with tea stops on the way. Since the ascent is very steep and bumpy, from 7000 feet to almost 12000 feet, we decided to take a couple of night halts to acclimatise ourselves. Keep in mind that the road is very rocky and uneven, and not advisable for the very old and infirm. There are some lodges and trekker’s huts at small villages on the Indo-Nepal border, along the route. We passed the villages of Chitray, Meghma, Gairibas, Tonglu, Tumling, Kalipokhri, Bhikaybanjang and finally reached Sandakphu.

The beautiful views of the forests of bamboo, pine and fir trees, with the blooming rhododendron flowers in March and April, and the grand views of the Himalayan peaks of the Kanchenjunga range, Lhotse, Makalu and Everest along the route more than made up for the inconveniences of a bumpy Jeep ride and the cold nights in the mountains. Spotting wild animals like snow leopard, red panda or black bears is a rarity but they do inhabit the Singalila National Park. Sighting birds like Khalij Pheasant, Wood Pigeons, Scarlet Minivets and Babblers was more common.

Date of experience: March 2020

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My TripAdvisor Review No.652: Tingling View Point, Mirik, West Bengal.

Tea Stop Near Mirik.

Tingling View Point was our first stop en route from Bagdogra airport to Mirik, near Darjeeling. It was about an hour’s drive from Bagdogra. It serves as an entry point to the hill town of Mirik, and you will see a platform with the sign board with a red heart, reading ‘I Love Mirik’. The views from the platform of the lower hills with tea gardens, and the winding road coming up the hill is superb.

We got down from our vehicle to stretch our limbs and have a cup of Darjeeling tea and some snacks at a tea shop called ‘Real View’.

Date of experience: March 2020

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My TripAdvisor Review No.651: Sandakphu Restaurant, Darjeeling.

Multi Cuisine Restaurant In Darjeeling.

This review is about the ‘Sandakphu’ restaurant in Darjeeling which belongs to the Summit Hermon Hotel and Spa. It is not about the popular Himalayan hiking destination after which it has been named.

Since we were staying at Summit Hermon Hotel we happened to dine at this multicuisine restaurant a couple of times. Though the food is cooked mostly in mustard oil, we liked the taste and preparation. We tried their Fish (Basa) Curry with rice and Veg Hakka Noodles. The roasted Masala Papad was a good starter. On another occasion we had Veg Jalfrezi with Parathas and a Veg Biryani.

The food was tasty and the service was good. Prices were moderate but not overpriced as the restaurant was well furnished and decorated with some nice paintings. We enjoyed the ambience.

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Date of visit: March 2020

• • Value
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My TripAdvisor Review No.650: Summit Hermon Hotel & Spa, Darjeeling.

Cosy Rooms With Mountain Views.

We arrived at the resort much earlier than the check-in time but the staff were very accommodating and speedily readied our two rooms and let us check in early. Reshma, the floor manager was very helpful. She gave us a lot of information about the places to visit as well as the contact number of a local taxi and tour operator.

The rooms are cosy and have heaters which we needed to use as it was still quite cold in mid-March. We had a beautiful bird’s eye view of the hill town and could just about make out the Kanchenjunga peak in the hazy distance. The bed mattresses were soft and had embedded heaters in them too. There was a large cupboard with a digital locker to keep our stuff. There was a flat screen TV with all the channels, and free wi-fi in all the rooms. We had tea from the sachets provided, made in the electric kettle provided in the room.

We had just returned from a five day Jeep trip from Sandakphu, so our first priority was to have a refreshing hot shower with the liquid soap and shampoo provided in the washrooms.

Then we went down to their restaurant ‘Sandakphu’ which was well furnished and decorated. The entire hotel has a quirky décor with old style but comfortable furniture and décor. There is a London ‘Bobby’ to greet you at the entrance. There are pictures and paintings of the Himalayas, and model locomotives of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway at various places on the showcase shelves.

At the end of our three day stay we did not want to leave, but had no choice as the entire hill town was shutting down due to the virus pandemic. Though we did not get to do much sightseeing, we had a very pleasant and relaxed stay at Summit Hermon, and would love to visit again.

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Date of stay: March 2020

Room tip: Most of the rooms have Himalayan views. Try for a room on the higher floor.

• • Location
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My TripAdvisor Review No.649: Mahabaleshwar Temple.

Ancient Shiva Temple.

This is the main temple in the temple complex of Old Mahabaleshwar. Lord Shiva is the presiding deity. As you enter you have to cross a huge seated Nandi Bull facing into the inner sanctum. The sanctum sanctorum houses Shiva’s bed, looking like a crumpled bedsheet, his damru (drum) and his trishul (fork). You are not allowed to linger very long as there is always a lone queue of people waiting for darshan; you may pay your respects, light an agarbatti, collect prasad from the pujari and carry on. You can make a formal donation at the donation booth near the exit, and you will receive more prasad and holy ash in a self-addressed envelope later by post.

According to the ancient legend there were two demons, Mahabal and Atibal, who were killed by Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu respectively. Both the demons requested that they be immortalised by building temples commemorating them, and two temples came into being. This temple, dedicated to Mahabal is called Mahabaleshwar, and the Atibaleshwar Temple is the smaller one located about 200 meters from this one. This temple is more than 800 years old and rebuilt in Hemadpanti style.

After paying our respects at the temple we did a parikrama (circumambulation) around it and admired the architecture and beautiful scenery with a lot of greenery around it. Photography is prohibited inside but we took some nice pictures outside.

Date of experience: December 2019

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My TripAdvisor Review No.648: Rahi Shivsagar Restaurant, Mahabaleshwar.

Vegetarian Multi Cuisine Restaurant.

Rahi Shivsagar is actually a 2-in-1 restaurant, Rahi and Shivsagar, located close to the Ambedkar statue in Mahabaleshwar market. Shivsagar section is a vegetarian restaurant serving all types of thali meals from different regions of India including Gujarati, Maharashtrian, South Indian, Punjabi and Special (with a sweet dish). They also serve a variety of snacks and breakfast dishes like dosa, idli and wadas. Rahi section serves the strawberry milkshakes and ice-creams.

I ordered a Gujarati Thali and it was quite tasty and filling. It had 3 chapatis, a dry sabji, a gravy potato dish, a lentil gravy, sweet dal, rasam, rice, papad and a sweet kheer dish. My wife had a special pav bhaji.

Later we ordered a strawberry milkshake from Rahi section of the restaurant. We had to pay separately for both the sections. Prices were on the higher side. Service was OK.

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My TripAdvisor Review No.647: Elephant's Head Point, Mahabaleshwar.

Two Elephant’s Heads in Mahabaleshwar At Different Locations.

There are actually two places in Mahabaleshwar associated with Elephant’s heads.

The first one is near Lodwick Point and beyond it. You have to walk about 250 meters from the monument dedicated to General Peter Lodwick on a narrow ridge to an overhanging rock which looks like an elephant’s head. Standing on the head of the elephant you get a spectacular view of the valley below. The overhanging rock looks like the head of an elephant when observed from Lodwick’s memorial. The 250 meter walk is a spine tingling experience in itself.

The second elephant’s head can be seen as you approach Kate’s Point, which is near Nakinda and Avakali, overlooking the Dhom Lake. The gap between the elephant’s trunk and the head looks like a needle-hole from the distance, hence it is also sometimes called the Needle Hole Point.

Date of experience: December 2019

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My TripAdvisor Review No.646: Mapro Garden & Chocolate Plant, Mahabaleshwar.

Superb Three In One Attraction. Picnic Spot, Shopping Place and Restaurant.

Over the years Mapro Garden on the Panchgani Mahabaleshwar Road has become a major tourist attraction and a must visit place for most of the visitors to either of the twin hill stations. It is a stopover for refreshments or a meal, a shopping spot to pick up jams, squashes, juices, chocolates and memorabilia. Now, with a new mini Khakhra (crisp roasted wheat crackers) factory set up next to the Chocolate factory you can even sample and buy different flavoured Masala Khakhras, fresh and hot from the assembly line. One can even stop here for a picnic in the vicinity as there are some good parks and look-out points.

There is a small garden with a rockery and fountain, and a playground with colourful three wheelers, where small children can play around. The garden overlooks the Krishna Valley, and if it’s not cloudy you can clearly see the Elephant’s Head near Kate’s Point in the distance. It is a good place for photography enthusiasts too.

After spending some time strolling in the gardens and enjoying the natural beauty of their strawberry plantation, we decided to have our picnic lunch. No, not from a picnic basket, but from their large alfresco restaurant which serves excellent wood fired oven pizzas, grilled sandwiches, soups, juices, milkshakes and ice-creams. You can, however, bring an empty hamper to fill up with your shopping of jams, crushes, chocolates, khakhras and squashes to carry home with you!

They have good, clean washrooms too, so travellers coming from faraway places generally take a break at Mapro Garden for a quick bite, and get refreshed for the last leg of their journey to Mahabaleshwar or Panchgani. They have also developed a huge free parking lot, off the main road, where the tourists can park their vehicles. Do keep in mind that this place is so popular that it is always overcrowded on weekends.

Date of experience: December 2019

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My TripAdvisor Review No.645: Swarooplaxmi Bhojanalaya, Kolhapur.

Excellent Maharashtrian Thali.

This traditional Maharashtrian restaurant is located in one of the narrow lanes near the Mahalaxmi Temple of Kolhapur. If you are visiting for the first time you may have some difficulty locating it. We had to enquire from the local shops to find the exact location.

This ‘Bhojanalaya’ or ‘kitchen where you can buy yourself a meal’ serves one of the best Maharashtrian thali meals in Kolhapur. We asked for a ‘Jowar Bhakri Thali’ wherein we were served a platter with two millet breads, eggplant (baingan) masala and mashed eggplant (baingan bhartha), a dry cabbage bhaji, rasam (spicy vegetable soup), pithala (a thick gravy made from chickpea flour), chutney, koshimbir (finely chopped salad), rice and papad. The taste of each item was unique and wonderful.

They also serve some snacks like ‘Misal’ and some sweet dishes like Gulab Jamun, Basundi, Puran Poli and Shrikhand.

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Date of visit: December 2019

• • Value
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My TripAdvisor Review No.644: Mahadwar Road (Shopping Area), Kolhapur.

Crowded Shopping Area Of Kolhapur.

Mahadwar Road is the main ‘Shopping Arcade’ of Kolhapur. It is located very near to the Mahalaxmi Temple and one can buy anything here from kitchen utensils, sarees, clothes and other accessories. The most famous accessories are the pure leather footwear which is a made by the local artisans of Kolhapur district. These are actually made in the rural areas of Maharashtra, and neighbouring Karnataka as well, and brought to the shops near the temple to be sold.

One has to be very careful while walking the narrow lanes around Mahadwar Road or one can easily get knocked off by the reckless two wheeler riders in these parts. They care two hoots for the pedestrian, so jay-walker beware!

Date of experience: December 2019

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My TripAdvisor Review No.643: Treebo Trend Balaji Residency, Kolhapur.

Compact And Cosy Rooms.

The room was small but adequately furnished. The AC of the room cooled it efficiently. The hotel is well furnished with a small wardrobe at the entrance. There was a study table and chair at one end of the room. There was a flat-screen TV and free wi-fi in the room. The small washroom was neat and well equipped with modern plumbing. Towels and liquid soap and shampoo were provided.

The staff were courteous and friendly. Car parking was available near the entrance and there was a guard posted there 24x7. There was no restaurant but we were served an adequate breakfast on the covered terrace.

Though it is located in a crowded section of Kolhapur, it was within walking distance of the famous Mahalaxmi Temple, and there were quite a few good restaurants nearby.

The room tariff was reasonable and well within our budget. All in all, It was a good overnight halt for us. I would give it a four and a half star rating if that was possible.

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Date of stay: December 2019

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