November 8, 2018

Malnad Road Trip: Bengaluru - Thirthahalli - Jog Falls - Goa - Kolhapur - Pune. Part 2.

Part 2: Sight-Seeing Around Shimoga, Thirthahalli, Sringeri.

Day 2: September 4, 2018. Tuesday. Shimoga.

I went for an early morning walk around Bananki homestay at around 6.30 am. I walked along a small road besides the areca nut plantation which is fenced by electrically charged wires. It was a very pleasant walk in the dense forests of Malnad.


A Lake in the dense forest.
Tea was served with Marie Biscuits as soon as I came back. After tea we sauntered in the gardens of the huge estate of the homestay.

Bananki Homestay

Bananki Homestay
We were served a hearty breakfast at 9 am. They gave us onion dosas and paddus with red chutney, watermelon, and gulab jamun followed by coffee.

We left for Shimoga around 10.30 am after getting the sight-seeing places from our hostess, Arpitha. She also gave us a packed lunch  to carry with us. She recommended that we visit Sakrebailu Elephant Camp and Mandagadde Bird Sanctuary. Gajanur Dam was a place to stop on the way. 

The road was bad in patches specially near Mandagadde. By the time we reached Sakrebailu at 12 noon, it was already closed. The timing is from 8.30 to 11.30 am. But we did see 3 elephants from the camp walking along the highway  with their mahouts when we were near the Camp. I took some snaps. There is also a ‘Jungle Lodges & Resorts’ place to stay across the road from the Camp. It can be booked online. You can read more about the elephant camp in my TripAdvisor review: Have Fun With the Elephants.



Sakrebaile Elephant Camp

Jungle Lodges and Resorts at Sakrebaile

Geeta had a hairline fracture in her right hand when we were in Bangalore, so we had to visit the Narayana Hrudalaya Hospital at Shimoga to change the plaster dressing. The hospital is located about 5 km before entering Shimoga. It looked to be a modern multispeciality hospital, with a glass and steel exterior and a large parking lot. We were there for about 2 hours, and the doctors did a good job of changing the cast on her hand.

On the way back to Devangi we stopped at the Gajanur Dam and had our picnic lunch. Arpitha had packed some delicious lemon-rice and curd-rice, with some homemade pickle.

You can read more about the dam in my TripAdvisor review: Gajanur Dam. Nice Picnic spot.

Then we stopped at Mandagadde Bird Sanctuary, where I could see one tree in the middle of the Tunga River which was full of long necked birds, either storks or cranes nesting there. There must have been a hundred white birds in that one tree.


Mandagadde Bird Sanctuary

After that I drove along NH169 at an average speed of about 70 kmph except on the bad patches where I had to slow down to 20 kmph. We reached back to Bananki at 5.05 pm.

We went for dinner at 8.30 pm. There was fried fish, chicken in gravy, a veg gravy dish, appams, pappadams, iddiappams in coconut milk, puran polis, rice and curd. The gravy dishes were mildly spiced and very tasty with appams.

After dinner we retired to our room. There were some foreign guests who were enjoying sitting around a bonfire outside the cottages, chatting away into the night.

Some data from my trip-log:

  • Bananki homestay, Devangi...0 km.....10.40 am
  • Thirthahalli.......................9 km......10.55 am
  • Mandagadde Bird sanctuary...41 km.....11.40 am
  • Sakrebaile Elephant camp......57 km.....12.10 pm
  • Narayana Hrudalaya hospital..68 km....12.30 pm
  • Back to Bananki.....................137 km...5.10 pm


Day 3: September 5, 2018. Wednesday. Sringeri, Agumbe.


I went for my morning walk towards Devangi town which is about 1 km from Bananki homestay, along the Mangalore highway. I walked up to the town circle from where there are five roads branching out in different directions. All the boards were in Kannada language so I turned back to Bananki to avoid getting lost.

Big Banyan tree on my walk to Devangi
After having our morning tea in the verandah, we went to the dining hall and had a sumptuous breakfast of omelet with puris, dosa, some sheera, papaya fruit and fresh watermelon juice.

Today we planned to visit Shringeri and Agumbe. Arpitha helped us chalk out the best route and again had a nice packed lunch ready for us by the time we left at 10.30 am.

We first visited Sringeri Mutt which is 44 km south of Bananki, in Chikmagalur district. It is a renowned pilgrimage centre for the Hindus and was established in the 8th century by the well known Indian philosopher, Adi Shankaracharya. It is a very nice group of temples nestled among the hills of the Western Ghats with the winding Tunga River flowing through it. The tapasya of the Jagadgurus of Sringeri make it vibrate with sanctity and spirituality. The drive to Sringeri through the lush greenery was also very scenic.

Entrance to Sringeri group of temples
 There are 4 main temples in Sringeri Mutt. You can read more about each of them in my TripAdvisor reviews.

We had mahaprasad in the huge prasadalaya hall of Sringeri Mutt after doing darshan of all the temples. We also met the 2 elephants after we came out of the Torana Ganpti Temple. The mahaprasad consisted of sweet sheera, rice, sambar, rasam and buttermilk. The items were served to us from huge steel vessels. Everything was well organised and the food was tasty and nourishing.

Then we went to Kigga village, and onwards to Sirimane Waterfalls, which is about 15 km from Sringeri. Sirimane was a very nice place recommended to us by Arpitha. Though the falls are not as tall as the Jog Falls, but it is very accessible. If you go prepared with a change of clothes you can even have a nice pressurized power shower by standing at the base of the falls, as many visitors were doing. You have to descend some steps to reach the base of the falls. While descending I could feel the spray blowing towards us. Then we climbed up to the watchtower to take some snaps.

Sirimane Waterfalls, near Kigga


At Kigga village we passed the Rishya Sringeshwara temple, from which the town of Sringeri derives its name. It is an ancient Shiva temple where the sage Rishyasinga is supposed to have performed penance. Again the drive from Sringeri to Sirimane was very scenic through narrow forested roads.

Read more about Sirimane waterfalls in my TripAdvisor review:

We then proceeded to Kundadari hills about 20 km away from Sringeri on the route to Agumbe. About 10 km before Agumbe we had to take a right turn to reach Kundadri Hill. This road also goes to Thirthahalli, but the hill is a 4 km uphill climb diverging from this road. The Kundadari Hill was very steep and I had to get into first gear very often. About 500 mtrs before reaching  the top there was a huge pothole with large stones where we got stuck. I parked at the side of the road and walked up the rest of the way to the top.

The hilltop is at a height of  about 800 mtrs above msl. The view and wind at the top was mind blowing. The low hanging monsoon clouds made the scene look mesmerizing. There is a 17th century Jain temple located on the hilltop, whose main deity is Parshwanatha, the 23rd tirthankar. 

Warning: The narrow ghat road is not in good condition, and has many hairpin bends. A novice driver in a small car may find it very difficult to negotiate.

Read more about Kundadari Hill in my TripAdvisor review:
Hilltop near Agumbe. Kundadari.

After we got back to the car we had our packed lunch, at 5 pm. Arpitha had packed Puliogere rice, curd rice and some boiled eggs for us. This was our second lunch of the day. We had already had mahaprasad at Sringeri earlier in the day.


View from Kundadri Hill

Road condition of Kundadari Hill
We reached back to Thirthahalli by another route. Petrol was showing only 2 blips left so I filled at the HP Pump just before the bridge (Sahyadri Service Station). Petrol had gone up to ₹82.22 per litre and I filled 29.19 ltrs for ₹2400.

When we got back we had coffee with tapioca sticks. Then we rested till dinner.

We went for dinner at 9 pm. Today there was Malabari parotta, rice, roti, baingan bhaji with jaggery, a tomato bhaji and one other veggie dish, along with fish gravy (river fish from Tunga River which had lot of tiny bones), and a chicken gravy. I had a little of everything but avoided rice. Finished off the meal with a cup of dahi.

 Some data from my trip-log:

  • Bananki...........................................0 km
  • Kuppali...........................................7 km
  • Koppa............................................17 km
  • Hariharpura...................................25 km
  • Sringeri.........................................44 km
  • Kigga.............................................65 km
  • Right turn to Kundadari ...............92 km
  • Kundadari Hilltop........................103 km
  • Thirthahalli by another route.......135 km
  • Back to Bananki...........................145 km

November 7, 2018

Malnad Road Trip: Bengaluru - Thirthahalli - Jog Falls - Goa - Kolhapur - Pune. Part 1.

Part - 1: Bengaluru to Thirthahalli.

DAY 1: September 3, 2018: Monday. Bangalore - Devangi (Thirthahalli).


We wanted to start from home in Sahakarnagar by 6 am, but the best we could manage was 6.45. Geeta packed some chutney sandwiches and a thermos full of tea to have on the way in our WagonR.

We encountered much less traffic by departing early. We took the route from Yeshwantpur and Tumkur to reach Dobaspet, 20 km from Tumkur, where we stopped to refuel.


There is a good HP COCO pump and a Kamat Upachar at Dobaspet. First we filled the tank of our WagonR to the brim (23 litres @ ₹81.96) and went to Kamat Upachar to refuel ourselves. I had idli sambar and Geeta had wada sambar with a cup of coffee. We stopped for 35 minutes at Dobaspet.


At Hiriyur 164 km from Bangalore we took a left turn off NH48 on to SH24 and drove on a two lane state highway to Hosadurga, Ajjampur, then SH65 to Tarikere where we were stuck in a traffic jam for well over 15 minutes.

Around noon time we stopped under the shade of a huge banyan tree and had our packed chutney sandwiches and thermos tea, which was still hot.


We then took a left turn to Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary, Bhadra Dam and via Lakkavalli to Muttinakoppa after which we had to cross the Tunga River by the narrow Muduve Bridge to emerge on NH169 to Thirthahalli. 



Bhadra Dam



Muduve Setu across the Tunga River before Tirthahalli

We had to cross the River Tunga again at the Tirthahalli Bridge to get to Devangi. We reached Thirthahalli at 2.40 pm, from where we took a left turn on to Koppa Road (NH169).


We reached Bananki Homestay, 8.5 km away from Thirthahalli, at 3 pm. We had done a total of 360 km from Sahakarnagar to Bananki Homestay at Devangi.


For more about Bananki Homestay read my review on TripAdvisor.
Experience The Malnad Way Of Life.


Bananki Homestay
We had our lunch at 3.15 pm in the separate dining hall which had 3 embedded stools to one round table (very unique). We had dosas, ragi rotis, bamboo vegetable, chilly pakoda, dal, rice, chutney and curds. After finishing lunch at 4 pm we rested and slept for a while. Both of us were tired. We got up at 5.30 pm and were treated to banana chips and coffee.


View from the Dining Hall at Bananki


Forest Cottages at Bananki Homestay
 We stayed put at the homestay for the next two days, exploring the beautiful forested Malnad countryside, and enjoying the local cuisine at Bananki.

Some data from my Trip Log


  • 6.45 am....Start from Sahakarnagar, Bengaluru.............0 km
  • 7.50 am.....Dobaspet (NH48) Refuel at HP pump.........47 km
  • 9.55 am.....Hiriyur (NH48). Left turn to SH24..............164 km
  • 10.55 am...Hosadurga Right turn...................................209 km
  • 11.45 am...Ajjampur.......................................................242 km
  • 12.45 pm...Tarikere (stuck in a jam for 15 min).............265 km
  • 1.00 pm.....Left turn to Bhadra Dam & Tiger sanctuary.268 km
  • 1.05 pm.....Lakavalli........................................................285 km
  • 1.05 pm.....Bhadra Wild Life Sanctuary..........................286 km
  • 1.10 pm......Bhadra Dam..................................................287 km
  • 1.30 pm.....Hunsakatte. Left turn to SH65.......................296 km
  • 1.55 pm ....Muttinakoppa.................................................316 km
  • 2.00 pm....Right turn to Muduve Setu, cross Tunga........319 km
  • 2.40 pm.....Thirthahalli....................................................351 km
  • 3.00 pm.....Devangi. Bananki Homestay.........................360 km
The above route may not be the best route to Thirthahalli as the road from Tarikere to Muttinakoppa was not in very good shape. Our host at Bananki told us that us that they generally advise coming via Bhadravati and Shimoga. However we got to see the Bhadra Wildlife Sanctuary and Bhadra Dam on this route, and quite enjoyed the forest scenery.

October 24, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.395: Babington Point, Mahabaleshwar. Jungle Point.

Babington Point used to be a beautiful view point, and I remember walking up to it and enjoying the beautiful view of Koyna Valley from here many years back, but not anymore. The view was obstructed by overgrown trees and bushes and we could see nothing of the valley below. Even the beautiful garden in the centre was overgrown and unkempt, and looked more like a jungle.

This place gets very few visitors. Located only about 2.5 km from the Mahabaleshwar market, it is at best a walking destination to visit on an early morning or evening walk. The green cover is very good and the area has got an aura of peace and serenity about it.
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This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 23, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.394: Vidyashankar Temple, Sringeri. Beautiful Temple With Intricate Carvings.

This temple is one of the main temples in Sringeri Mutt, which was founded by Adi Shankaracharya. It is on the left side of Sri Sharadamba temple besides the River Tungha, and has very beautiful stone carvings and sculptures all around it. It is dedicated to the 10th Jagadguru of Sringeri, Sri Vidyashankar, and was built in the year 1338 AD.

The temple is so constructed that the morning rays of the sun falls on the pillar representing the relevant zodiac sign for the month, for that entire month. There are 12 such pillars corresponding to the 12 zodiac signs and the phenomenon speaks volumes of the architectural mastery

Darshan timings of this temple is from 7 am to 1 pm, and evening 5 pm to 8.30 pm. Devotees can also partake in the free meals offered at the Prasadalaya from 12.15 pm to 2.30 pm (lunch), and from 7.15 pm to 8.30 pm (dinner).

The Vidyashankar temple is definitely a beautiful temple and worth a visit if you are touring in the Chikmagalur district of Karnataka.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 22, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.393: Saayali Restaurant, Mahabaleshwar. Gujarathi Thali Buffet Meal.

We had dined at Saayali earlier and tried out their ala-carte dishes which we had enjoyed. This time we decided to have their vegetarian Gujarathi Thali which they serve in the main dining hall in Shreyas Hotel itself. The parking lot is common for both the restaurant and hotel.

The pricing of the thali was a bit confusing. They charge ₹350 for the thali, irrespective of whether it is a limited or unlimited thali. Then the manager clarified that the limited thali can be shared by two persons, whereas the unlimited thali is meant for only one person, but he can eat as much as he wants. In the limited thali, additional servings of any item would be charged extra. We decided to go for the limited edition and found it to be quite sufficient for the two of us, both senior citizens.

The home style vegetarian food was very tasty and healthy. For starters they served mix pakoras and a tumbler of chaas. For mains there was paneer masala, tendli dry and aloo rasswala, along with masoor kathol, dal fry and sweet Gujarathi dal. There were four chapattis, papad, salad, pickle and steamed rice, followed by a very sweet gulab jamun.

We enjoyed the traditional style Gujarathi thali. People with large appetites should go for the unlimited version of the thali. Non vegetarian food can be had at the stand alone Saayali next door, in the same compound.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 19, 2018

My TriAdvisor Review No.392: Fasal Farm To Thali. Best Thali Meal.

‘Fasal Farm To Thali’ is the speciality restaurant in ‘Saj On The Mountain’ resort, which is located about 7 km before Mahabaleshwar, on the Panchgani Mahabaleshwar Road. They serve an excellent Gujarati Thali buffet meal, only at lunchtime, between 12.30 to 3 pm.

We were staying at the resort and had a very good meal in which they started with mini samosa and paneer cheese rolls, green salad, pickle, papad and chutney. This was followed by bhindi bhaji and a mix vegetable dish and paneer Lahori, two dals, masala puris, phulka rotis, steam rice, tomato rice and two sweet dishes, sevai kheer and chum-chum. Initial servings are small, but we could ask for a refill of any item which we liked. We also had nice kullhad (cup) of masala chaas to drink.

Service was very good and there were about three or four waiters ready to fill up our empty katories, with the different items. Price is on the higher side if you are only here for lunch, but more affordable for us since we had joined the all-day dining plan. They have a different menu every day.

We enjoyed the meal and ate till we could hardly walk after the meal.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

My TripAdvisor Review No.391: Wok On Wheels, Mahabaleshwar. Good For Breakfast And Fast Food.

As the name implies ‘Wok On Wheels’ is a mobile food stall, stationed just opposite JK Motels on the Panchgani Mahabaleshwar Road just after Metgutad village.

On one of my morning walks I picked up a couple of wada-pavs, at ₹10 each, and tea in a thermos. They also serve Maska Pav, Misal Pav, Bhurji Pav, Maggi noodles. and Poha in the morning, and some Chinese dishes like Fried Rice and Hakka Noodles for lunch or dinner. They don’t provide tables and chairs as it is located on the main road, so you either gobble it standing there, or carry a parcel.

The food is freshly prepared and very cheap compared to the regular restaurants.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 18, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.390: Garden Ice Cream Restaurant, Mahabaleshwar. Not Only Ice Creams.

Garden Ice Cream Restaurant is located near Lingmala, about 2 km before Mahabaleshwar on the Panchgani Road. It has very picturesque surroundings with strawberry gardens and the Venna River on the other side.

This was the second time we stopped here, once before for their corn patties and this time for their strawberry ice cream, with preserved strawberries picked from their own farms. We enjoyed both the items, and were surprised to learn that they serve regular meals and snacks as well, both veg and non veg. The owner Mr. Kasam even offered to prepare Chicken Dum Biryani for us for dinner, made to order, if we could muster up a group of about 5 or 6 biryani lovers.

It is a good place to stop for a quick snack, ice-cream, milk shake or even a regular meal.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 17, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.389: Delight Foods, Mahabaleshwar-Panchgani Road. Good Food, Good Ambience.

We stopped at Delight Foods, next to JK Motels in Metgutad, about 8 km before reaching Mahabaleshwar, to have lunch. The restaurant looked attractive from outside with good ambience, and two colourful model elephants to welcome us. There is sufficient parking space besides the restaurant, even though it is on the main Panchgani Mahabaleshwar road. The restaurant was neat and clean and the service was courteous. They serve veg as well as non-veg food. Though it was around 12 noon and a bit early for lunch, we were welcomed in.

We ordered ‘Dingri Mutter Do Pyaza’ (Mushroom Peas in Onion gravy) and Tawa Chapattis. As tandoor was not working they could not serve roti or naan. The vegetable dish was quite tasty, though a bit oily, and the chappattis were hot and fresh. We finished the meal with vegetable raitha. Prices were reasonable.

This restaurant is a good place to stop on the way to Mahabaleshwar from Panchgani or vice versa. Maybe next time we will try out their non vegetarian dishes.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 16, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.388: Atibaleshwar Temple, Mahabaleshwar. Small Shiva Temple at Old Mahabaleshwar.

This is a small Shiva temple which is often overlooked by most tourists who visit the temple complex at Old Mahabaleshwar. As we walked up to the Panchganga Temple, where the five rivers originate, the Atibaleshwar temple was on the left hand side, about 200 metres before reaching the Panchgaga mandir. We saw that there was a narrow passageway between the wayside shops and then there was a large Nandi bull at the entrance to this temple. The main Mahabaleshwar temple is on the right hand side. Both these temples were supposed to have been originally built 2500 years ago, but the Atibaleshwar temple still has the original structure.

According to the ancient legend there were two demons, Mahabal and Atibal, who were killed by Lord Shiva and Lord Vishnu respectively. Both the demons requested that they be immortalised by building temples commemorating them and hence these two temples came into being.

However, most of the devotees who visit the temple complex skip the Atibaleshwar temple with the beautiful Nandi bull. Hence one gets a feel of peace and calm on visiting this temple and can worship the deity at their own pace without any hurry.
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This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 15, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.387: Lingmala Falls, Panchgani. Beautiful Waterfalls Between Panchgani and Mahabaleshwar.

The beautiful Lingmala waterfalls, which is hidden away between two hills, is about 16 km from Panchgani, and about 7 km before you reach Mahabaleshwar. There is a sharp left U-turn about 1 km from Saj Mountain Resort leading to the falls, through Lingmala village. It can also be accessed from the Satara Mahabaleshwar Road, but the road is one-way, being very narrow and winding through dense forest. Entry is from Panchgani side and exit from Satara side. You can park your vehicle outside the Forest Office (Satara Van Vibhag) and buy your ticket (₹20) to enter the ‘Lingmala Nature Trail’. Gates are open from 8 am to 5.30 pm, parking is free.

The falls start at the head of the Venna Valley, with water overflowing from the Venna Lake. There is paved track, which is very well maintained by the Satara Van Vibhag (Forest Department), leading down to the falls. There are benches to sit and rest for a while, if you get tired climbing back.

There are two parts of the falls. The left track leads to the minor falls nearby, where the falling water forms a pool where one can take a dip. Be careful of the underwater rocks, though. The right track leads to the view point, about a 10 minutes uphill walk, from where one can view the main falls as it plunges about 500 feet down into the Venna valley below, forming the Venna River.

The Lingmala Falls are best visited after the start of the monsoons and between July to October. Then one can see and feel the force of nature in all its glory. During the summer months the flow reduces to a trickle, but one can still enjoy a refreshing dip in the pool formed near the minor falls.

The falls can also be seen from a distance if you do not have the time to spare (about an hour and a half) to walk down, and back up, the Lingmala Nature Trail. About 8 km from Mahabaleshwar, get down at Metgutad village and walk down to the edge of the ridge about 500 metres. You will get a long shot view of the main waterfall showering down into the valley below.

However, even at other times of the year it is a good place to visit, just to experience the walk through the forests on the Lingmala Nature Trail. We saw monkeys, squirrels, bulbuls, sunbirds, butterflies and other small creatures while walking down the trail. If you are lucky you may see the Giant Malabar squirrel which is quite common in Mahabaleshwar.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 14, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.386: Babbington Point, Mahabaleshwar. More of a Picnic Spot Than a View Point.

We went for the view but were sorely disappointed. The view was obstructed by overgrown trees and bushes and we could see nothing of the valley below. Even the beautiful garden in the centre was overgrown and unkempt.

This place gets very few visitors, but we saw some senior citizens enjoying a picnic with their beer and picnic baskets. It is also a good place for a long walk if you are putting up nearby on the Tapola Road and up to the market, since it is only about 2.5 km from the Mahabaleshwar market. The green cover is very good and the area has got an aura of peace and serenity about it.

Babbington Point used to be a very good point, and I remember walking up to it and enjoying the beautiful view of Koyna Valley from here many years back, but not anymore. The Mahabaleshwar Hill Council needs to clean up their act and at least maintain the little garden at the centre so that it becomes more attractive to the tourists.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

October 13, 2018

My TripAdvisor Review No.385: Parsi Point, Panchgani. Good View of Krishna Valley.

Parsi Point is en route from Panchgani to Mahabaleshwar, just 2 km after Panchgani town ST Stand. We stopped here for some time to admire the lovely scenery of the Krishna River and Dhom Dam below in the Krishna Valley. There was a carpet of greenery and some light purple flowers all the way down the hillside amidst the eucalyptus and silver oak trees.

We parked at the side of the road itself and paid a nominal parking fee. One has to be careful as there is a lot of high speed traffic to and from Mahabaleshwar. There are many stalls serving snacks like wada-pao and pakoras, as well as tea, coffee and cold drinks. One can simply enjoy the beautiful scenery of the valley, or gaze through a telescope for a small fee. The keeper of the telescope will give you a virtual guided tour of temples and houses in the villages below or on the hills on the other side. One can easily see the Kamalgad Fort on the opposite hillside.

It is worthwhile to stop here for a while, relax on one of the benches, and enjoy the scenery and the strong breeze which tries to blow you away.
This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC