VELNESHWAR: A BEAUTIFUL KONKANI VILLAGE BY THE BEACH

Velneshwar village is a beautiful beach destination, about 300 km from Mumbai and Pune. It has an excellent and uncrowded beach which is very good for swimming and sunbathing. On the eastern side there is a backdrop of hills with dense forests with a good variety of birds to be seen. There is a very famous Shiva temple close to the beach. There are some resorts and stay options, including an MTDC resort on the hillside with a fantastic view. Local Konkani cuisine, including fish, is available at the resorts and a couple of restaurants near the beach. Visit Velneshwar if you are a beach lover and would like to take a quiet and peaceful break away from the noise and bustle of city life.

Here is an account of our 5 day road trip to Velneshwar.

 

DAY 1: December 5, 2015, Saturday.

Even though we got up at 5 am, by the time we had tea and got ready it was 8.20 am. We bundled ourselves into the car with bag and baggage. Being a Saturday there was not too much traffic since many schools are closed, and we had reached Katraj junction and NH4 at 9 am.

At the Khed Shivapur toll we had to pay Rs.80, and reached the BP CoCo pump at 9.30 am. They had only Speed and I filled the tank to the brim. We used the washroom at the gas station and after a cup of thermos tea we were on our way again.

Geeta had packed some sandwiches so we did not stop anywhere for wada pao. We reached Umbaraj (159 km) at 11.45 am and had to turn right under the NH4 highway to go to Chiplun.

The drive to Chiplun via Patan and Koyna was very picturesque. It is a two lane state highway (SH78) and the roads were in reasonably good shape. There were a lot of trees and fields along the route. After passing Koyna the road was following the Koyna River till we reached the Kumbharli Ghat. It is a fairly long and steep descent down the ghat to the town of Chiplun in the Konkan. Chiplun lies midway between Mumbai and Goa on NH17.

Kumbharli Ghat

We reached Chiplun (246 km from Pune) just before 2 pm and decided to stop at Hotel Abhishek for lunch. It took us a while to find the place since the hotel was in a side lane. They had a dedicated parking space and the restaurant was already quite crowded. We got a table on the mezzanine floor. We ordered fish thalis, Geeta had bangda (mackerel) and I had surmai (seer fish). There was a wati of solkadi in the thali too. This place seems to be the favourite restaurant in Chiplun for Malvani seafood. Their walls were plastered with snaps of celebrities who had dined there.

We started for Guhagar at 3 pm. Luckily I had asked a rick driver and he guided us through the town bye pass route which avoided the narrow lanes of Chiplun town. The road to Guhagar from Chiplun was quite scenic, winding and undulating over hills and down again, with a lot of greenery along the route.  We drove up to Modka Agar where the hotel “Shantai by the Lake” is located on the right, and took a left turn a little ahead at the circle, on to the coastal road (SH4). This T-junction is about 4 km before Guhagar town. From here Velneshwar is about 18 km and we passed the Konkani village of Palshet before arriving at the MTDC resort at 4.30 pm. We had covered a distance of 305 km from Pune to Velneshwar.

Way to beach side entrance of MTDC Resort

MTDC Velneshwar cottages

MTDC Velneshwar is one of the new resorts of MTDC, and the greenery inside the resort has not yet fully matured, but there was a nice round garden with some flowering shrubs in the centre and another lawn with a playground at a lower level. The independent cottages are laid out at different levels, and each cottage has got a sit-out from where you can admire the setting sun with your cup of tea. The non ac rooms are at the top level, with the ac rooms at a lower level near the reception and restaurant.

I was met by Swapnil at the reception and showed him the receipt of my online booking. Alankar helped us with the luggage. We got the non ac room right at the top with a fantastic view of the sea. The room and bathroom were spacious, but there was no cupboard in the room.  We got a set of towels, soap and shampoo sachets.

We relaxed for a while. It was a bit warm and we had to put on the fan on full.

The view of the sunset at 6 pm was spectacular from our balcony and we took snaps with our camera and cellphones.

Sunset

We had to order our dinner an hour in advance on the intercom. We ordered veg thalis @ Rs.120. We went down to the restaurant at 8.30 pm. There was cabbage veg, moong gravy, dal rice, 3 big chapattis, a wati of dahi and sheera and it was quite filling. After dinner we sat out on the benches in the garden and enjoyed the cool sea breeze.

DAY 2: December 6, 2015, Sunday.

At around 6.45 am I left for a walk just as the sun was rising behind the forested hills. There was a slight chill in the December morning air, and a lot of fishing vessels could been seen moving about in the calm waters of the sea.

Velneshwar beach with fishing boats

There was a short cut near the reception entrance gate, consisting of some steps on the hillside, leading down to the beach below. It was a ten minute walk to the beach. The path to the beach was adjacent to the ‘Kinara Beach Resort’ which is a hotel facing the beach.

Steps leading down to the beach

The beach itself looked beautiful in the early morning. There was a line of tall coconut trees all along the approximate 2 km length of dark yellow sand. There were no rocks except at the base of the two hills at the ends of the beach, and it seemed quite safe for swimming. Very few people were there at the early morning hour, and I enjoyed my morning walk by the waves lapping the shore.  At the south end of the beach are the Velneshwar Shiva Temple and the fishermen’s village.

Morning walk on the beach

Velneshwar Beach at sunrise

We were served with a morning cup of tea in a paper cup by Ram, the restaurant helper. At 8.30 am we went for our complimentary breakfast and had poha and omelet pao, followed by a cup of coffee. The pao was toasted and smelt and tasted good.

We decided to relax for the day and have a lazy Sunday. I moved our car and parked it in the shade of one of the cottages, after a group of about 20 departed in their van. I think we were the only residents of the resort on that day, and we had a quiet and peaceful morning chilling out in our room after it became too hot to sit out.

Chilling out on a Sunday at the resort

We ordered ‘bangda’ fish thalis for lunch, but it seems that the fishermen did not have a good catch that day. The restaurant manager Mr. Chandrakant Nagvekar called us on the intercom and asked us if he could serve us with another variety of fish called ‘Soundara’ or some such sounding fish in the Konkani language, and we agreed. This fish was about half the size of a bangda but had softer flesh, like bassa fish. We got 2 small fried pieces and a small piece in gravy with rice and chapattis, and a small bowl of solkadi. The thali was priced at Rs.150. The ‘Surmai’ fish thalis were priced at Rs.250.

Fish thali

After a long afternoon nap we had some snacks and tea in our room, I went for an evening walk on the beach and watched the sunset at around 6 pm. We lazed till dinner and ordered veg thali about an hour in advance. Veg thali rate with a sweet dish was Rs.120, and Rs.100 without.

After dinner we saw the movie ‘Mary Kom’ on their LCD TV. They had a Videocon D2H connection.

DAY 3: December 7, 2015, Monday.

This morning I left at 6.40 am and walked inland towards Guhagar. The road passed through some jungle and a village and came out on some open flat land where some construction activity of new apartment blocks could be seen. I walked up to a newly opened resort called ‘Privilege Resort’ on SH4 near the junction. The resort didn’t seem to be occupied as I didn’t see any parked cars outside, but there was some security manning the gate, which was closed.

We had our cups of morning tea and then went for breakfast at 8 am. We had sabudana khichdi. After getting our room cleaned at 10 am we drove down to the Velneshwar Shiva Temple which is just about 1 km from MTDC. We had a good darshan and found out about two restaurants located next to the beach, ‘Jeevan Sugandh’ which served both veg and non-veg and fish thalis, and ‘Kalpataru’ which is a pure veg restaurant run by a Gokhale family. Both places also seemed to have lodging rooms available nearby. We liked Kalpataru as it seemed cleaner, and we had a cup of tea there before leaving for Guhagar.

Velneshwar Shiva Temple

We reached Guhagar at 12.15 pm after a 45 minute drive from Velneshwar. Guhagar is a larger coastal town and it was difficult to find parking near the Vyadeshwar Shiva Temple. We parked near the Chowpatty beach, which had a lot of food stalls, and walked back for a darshan of the temple. The temple was neat and clean but the sanctum with the lingam was closed.

The Ufrata Ganpati mandir was back near the Chowpatty beach. It is a small temple with a white marble murti of Ganpati. We did darshan at 1 pm and went for lunch to ‘Shraddha’ restaurant, which had been recommended to us by Nagvekar.

‘Shraddha’ restaurant was cool and clean inside and we had a simple veg thali for Rs.80 each. It consisted of a dry veg with methi, one gravy veg, dal, rice, 2 chappattis, papad, pickle and a tiny wati of dahi.

We finished our trip to Guhagar by 1.30 pm and were back at MTDC by 2.15 pm for our afternoon siestas. We slept without the fan as there was a power outage at 3 pm. It was very warm in the afternoon without the fans, and they wouldn’t start the generators to conserve the power for the night, if required. So at 4.30 pm we drove down to the beach and had wada-pao and tea at Gokhale’s Kalpataru. Then Geeta visited the Shiva temple again and I walked the full length of the beach and back. I got some very good sunset snaps with the Canon and Moto-G and posted some on WhatsApp.

Tree lined Velneshwar Beach

Gulls on the beach

Beautiful sunset

We got back to our room at 6.30 pm (power was back), and had some more snacks and tea in the room. We went down for dinner at 8.45 pm and had only a dry bhaji with 2 chapatis for Rs.50 each. Then we sat for some time outside on the lawn and enjoyed the sea breeze before retiring to our rooms.

DAY 4: December 8, 2015, Tuesday.

Got up a bit later and left for my walk at 7.15 am. I walked along the hilly road which leads to the adjoining beach and village (Karul), behind the hillock to the north of Velneshwar beach. The road was rough and gravelly but just about motorable. I passed through a village where a ferocious dog started barking at me. I brandished my dog stick at him but to no avail. Luckily he was tied up.

View of MTDC Resort from road to Karul

On one side was hill and on the right was a clear view of Velneshwar Beach with the MTDC Resort nestled on the hillside looking very picturesque.  After walking for about 25 min I reached the headland from where I got a good view of the Karul village and its tiny beach. There was a cluster of fishing vessels parked in the calm bay and I took a few snaps of the whole scene with my Canon. I thought I saw some dolphin too, as some black shapes kept bobbing out of the rippling waters in the distance, but I couldn’t be too sure about it.

Karul Beach and fishing village

Karul Beach from the hill

I reached back at 8.15 am and had a cup of tea, before going down for a breakfast of poha and coffee at 9 am. After getting the room cleaned we left to visit the village of Hedvi at 11 am. On the way we stopped at Kalpataru for a cup of ginger tea. We met young Vikrant Gokhale, the proprietor, and told him to have our lunch order ready at 1 pm.

From the Velneshwar Shiva temple the road to Hedvi is the one on the right and passes through the quaint village of Velneshwar. It then goes winding up the hillside and one can get exquisite views of the temple town and beach from up above. The drive is very beautiful. It joins with the SH4 highway and the right turn at the T junction leads to Hedvi.

Bird's eye view of Velneshwar

About 8 km from Velneshwar there is a junction. The straight road goes to the beach and Baman Ghal. We took this road first as we didn’t know that the Ganpati temple closes at 12 noon. We reached Hedvi beach at 11.40 am, after passing through a village along a narrow and rough road.

Hedvi Beach

Hedvi Beach with small temple

Hedvi Beach 

Hedvi Beach is a small one, but beautiful and deserted. I don’t know whether it is safe for swimming because there are many rocks on the side. There is a small temple on the rocks dedicated to Lord Shiva, and behind this temple there are more rocks which you have to climb a few feet before you can see a cleft in the rocks which is called the 'Baman Ghal'. At high tide water rushes in to the gap and creates a towering fountain of spray when the first wave cannot flow back due to another incoming wave. I did not get to witness this phenomenon as it was low tide at that time.

Baman Ghal

We then went to the Hedvi Ganpati Temple and reached there at 12.30 pm and had to pay our respects to the idol from outside the locked sanctum. The temple itself is very beautiful as it is located on a hilltop surrounded by lush greenery and dense forest. It reminded me of the Ganpati temple at Ganeshgule. Geeta bought some coconut modaks from a stall in the temple premises and we had this as prasad.

Hedvi Ganpati Mandir

We were back at Gokhale’s ‘Kalpataru’ exactly at 1 pm for our lunch. We had a cold ‘Rimzim’, a bottled jal jeera drink to refresh ourselves. I had a veg thali and Geeta had wada masala with pao. After lunch we had a Mother Dairy choco-vanilla cone ice-cream. The veg thali was Rs.100 and our lunch bill came to Rs.238.

We were back at MTDC at 2 pm and rested for an hour and a half. Then we had some snacks and tea in our room. At 5 pm we went out for a stroll in the resort grounds, and took some snaps using the tripod. Later we sat on the terrace above the reception, ordered a cup of tea from the restaurant, and watched the sun set.

Rooftop view from the resort

Sunset from the rooftop

We relaxed till dinner. We had bhindi sabji with 2 chapattis and a wati of dahi for Rs.60 each, for dinner.

The Airtel signal was very weak in our room, so we would sit out on the benches in the garden to make phone calls after dinner. The signal was slightly better outside.

DAY 5: December 8, 2015, Wednesday.

We had to check out today so I didn’t go for long walk outside the resort. I strolled towards the garden and around the resort keeping an eye on the sea to see if I could spot any sign of dolphins on the waves. No dolphins, but I certainly spotted a group of big birds flying low above the coconut trees. They weren’t water birds, but a group of hornbills flying inland towards the forests.

Panoramic view of Velneshwar north end

Ram, the tea boy came around at 7.30 am and we had our morning tea. I gave him a small tip for serving us well in the restaurant for the last four days. We went for breakfast at 8 am before packing and getting ready to leave for Pune. Both of us had omelet bread and coffee for breakfast. We filled our thermos with 4 cups of tea for the journey. We left at 9.30 am from the resort.

We passed Guhagar junction (Modka Agar) at 10 am and reached Chiplun at 10.50 am. I missed the bye-pass route and had to wade through the town and market traffic at a slower pace till we reached the Karad highway. From here the driving was smooth and we started ascending the Kumbharli Ghat at 11.10 am. Mid way up the ghats we stopped at a look-out point for some snacks and thermos tea. We passed Koyna at noon and Patan at 12.25 pm and reached Umbaraj on NH4 at 1 pm. There were many diversions on the NH4 highway due to road construction work.

On the way back, near Koyna

We were thinking of stopping for lunch at Surur, but kept pulling on. Ultimately we stopped at the Kamat’s at Kikvi where I filled petrol at the HP pump. We had masala dosas and a Vithal special wada, a big batata wada in masala gravy and topped up with dahi and sev.

Total toll on NH4 was Rs.135 each way. The difference in ordinary petrol (Rs.65.92) and Speed (Rs.68.60) was considerable. We reached home at 4.30 pm, after covering a total trip distance of 675 km, including sight-seeing.

My TripAdvisor Review No.147: Hotel Abhishek, Chiplun.

“Excellent Malvani Seafood.”

Reviewed 2 days agoNEW

We were driving from Pune to Velneshwar and had shortlisted Hotel Abhishek at Chiplun as our lunch stopover. We arrived at Chiplun at 1.45 pm but it took us about 15 min to locate the restaurant. Eventually we found it in a small lane on the right hand side of the Mumbai Panjim highway (NH17) as you head towards Goa. We were guided to their dedicated parking lot in a bungalow plot opposite the restaurant. There were already about 10 cars parked there as the restaurant seems to be quite popular with travellers.

All the tables on the ground floor were occupied and we eventually found a table on the mezzanine floor upstairs. The seating was a bit congested with 3 more tables on the floor. The walls were plastered with snaps of celebrities who had dined there earlier, but we didn’t bother to squint at the small photographs as we were quite hungry.

There were a variety of thalis (platters) of seafood, prawn, chicken, mutton and vegetarian. There were ala-carte dishes too. I ordered the surmai (kingfish) thali for Rs.280, and my wife ordered the bangda thali for Rs.240. We were served within 10 minutes. The fish thali consisted of a piece of fry fish, and a smaller piece in gravy, an extra bowl of fish curry to be had with rice, two chapattis (or wades), a papad, pickle, onion and lemon, and a small cup of solkadhi (spicy digestive drink).

The fried fish marinated in the local spice was very tasty and we enjoyed the spicy Malvani gravy with rice. Service was reasonably quick, but we were lucky to get the last few tables available, otherwise we may have had to wait in a queue if we had arrived a few minutes later.

They had clean washrooms which we used before continuing our road trip.

• Visited December 2015
  • Value
  • Service
  • Food

This review is the subjective opinion of a TripAdvisor member and not of TripAdvisor LLC

http://www.tripadvisor.in/ShowUserReviews-g297650-d2388901-r332584935-Hotel_Abhishek-Chiplun_Maharashtra.html#

A Goan Monsoon - August 2009.

A GOAN MONSOON

DRIVING HOLIDAY TO GOA IN JULY – AUGUST 2009.



We were driving down to Goa one more time, our fifth holiday in Goa since December 1999. I had booked in Club Mahindra’s Varca Beach resort almost two months ahead. We got the booking easily because it is the end of blue season (slack season) at this time in Goa. Only die-hard Goa lovers go at this time because of the monsoon rains.

We had to reach Varca by 30th July and our check-out was on 2nd August (3 nights); but we would be utilising only about 1.6 days from our red week. I decided that we would leave a day earlier and spend one night at a destination en route. We had a choice of either a hill resort or a Konkani seaside resort. Finally I narrowed it down to either Sawantwadi or Old Goa/Divar Island.



DAY ONE: 29-July-2009. PUNE TO OLD GOA.

We left home at 6.45 am, after getting up at the ungodly hour of 4.45 am. It’s always good to leave early on a road trip. It was a smooth drive to Kolhapur on National Highway No.4 (NH4), and we were in the city by 11.15 am, with only one tea stop on the way. We turned right into the city and had to wade through the traffic for a good 45 minutes. We passed the main train station, market, and Mahalaxmi temple till we reached Rankala Lake, from where the Gaganbavda road (SH115) takes off.

The road was not in as bad a condition as the Uttur-Ajra-Amboli road, which we had used in November 2008, and was rough only in some patches. As we approached the hill town of Gaganbavda, we could feel the air becoming cooler, and soon we were moving through the rain laden clouds. We stopped at a wayside restaurant, which was more like a dhaba, and ordered mixed vegetables and chapattis for lunch. The MTDC Resort, ‘Hill Top’, was desolate and empty and the restaurant seemed to be closed.

As we were descending the ghats I could not help but stop to take some snaps from the hillside. This was the classic monsoon scenery, with the slowly ascending fluffy clouds misting up the surroundings, glistening wet roads, and small waterfalls trickling down the rocks. As I was clicking, a band of monkeys joined the party and got shot by my Canon. One of them appeared to be the troupe leader, and he sat glowering at me till I took a special shot at him and turned him into a portrait called ‘King Monkey’.

After passing Vaibhavwadi we were stuck at a railway crossing for 10 minutes. I made use of the opportunity to click a train of the Konkan Railways just as it was passing.

Instead of stopping at Sawantwadi, we decided to carry on to Panjim, as it was only 4.30pm. We reached the Panjim bridge within an hour, but then got stuck in the traffic crossing over the bridge. Our Zen also started giving trouble; stalling while stopping or slowing down. Anyway we carried on. After crossing the bridge we turned left onto the Ribander road towards Old Goa, instead of taking the straight road to Margao. The Ribander road runs besides the Mandovi river.

Across the Mandovi river near Old Goa is Divar Island. Yesterday I had spoken to one Mr. Jan Bostock who runs a homestay by the name of ‘Divar Island Retreat’. He lets out a room for Rs.3500 for a couple, with all meals included. He sounded quite friendly and even called back to find out our meal preferences, and I was tempted to cross the Mandovi on a ferry and spend the night at his retreat. However it was getting dark and I didn’t know the location of the ferry point so we decided to halt at Old Goa Residency run by Goa Tourism Development Corpn. (GTDC). The off-season rates were quite reasonable and we decided to go with the standard non-a/c room (Rs.600), which also had a nice little balcony to sit out.

After checking in and having a cuppa tea I went for an evening walk to have a recce of the surroundings. I picked up some bhajjias and pao which we had as a pre-dinner snack. Yummy!

We had dinner at the in-house restaurant run by a contractor. Geeta had a glass of port wine and I had mild beer (Goans prefer mild beer, said the contractor). For dinner he served us prawns fried and Red Snapper fish masala. Our dinner bill amounted to Rs.365, which we thought was on the high side. Goa is supposed to be a food lover’s paradise, remember.

After studying some maps and pamphlets of Old Goa I fell asleep by 11.30pm.



DAY 2: 30-July-2009. OLD GOA TO VARCA.

For my morning walk I first walked to the Gandhi statue, turned right and walked down to the St. Catherine’s ferry point. A lot of locals were crossing over from Divar Island in the approaching ferry to go to their place of work on the mainland. The ferry was carrying a bus, a bevy of two wheelers, and quite a number of people on foot. I got talking to a friendly school teacher, who was waiting with his two wheeler, to cross over to the island. From his descriptions, Divar Island seems to be an enchanting and peaceful paradise, with hardly any vehicles and a lot of trees and birds. In fact, there is a bird sanctuary (Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary) on a neighbouring island called Chorao island. I decided there and then to go with Geeta on the ferry and visit Divar.

Back in the room Geeta was awake since 7.30am. We got ready and left our room at 8.30am and had a breakfast of idli and sweet pao with coffee at a small cafe in the market nearby. We abandoned the car and walked down to St. Cajetan’s Convent and took some snaps of the church and the Viceroy’s Arch.

 Then we jumped on to the ferry which seems to be continuously crossing to and fro from the ferry point to the island. The trip is free for people crossing on foot! There was a bus waiting on the island which takes the passengers to Piedade (pronounced Piadaddey), the centre-point of the island, for a mere Rs.5 per head.

After locating ‘Our Lady of Divar High School’, we started looking for Mr. Jan Bostock’s house. A retired gentleman, who seemed to be the Landlord of a nearby bungalow (the island is full of old style Portugese bungalows), went out of his way to help us find the house. The Bostocks have a very nice homestay bungalow, and the best part is the cute little swimming pool, which was being kept very clean by the attendant. We were greeted by Jan’s mother and the Goan house-maid. Mr and Mrs Bostock had probably gone to the market. There was a chessboard lying around and a lot of books strewn on the bookshelves. The bedroom was small but homely and inviting. It did seem a nice place to spend a week long vacation if one wants to just ‘chill-out’.

We had to wait 15 minutes to get a bus back. There are four ferry points on the island so we had to wait for the right bus to take us back. A local helped us board the correct bus and we were back on the ferry in 5 minutes. We checked out of our room at noon, and visited the historical churches of Old Goa. The buildings are indeed majestic, and the atmosphere inside the churches is soothing and has a calming effect on the nerves. We visited the churches of St. Francis of Assisi, Basilica of Bom Jesus, and the Se Cathedral.

We took the Ponda route to reach Margao, instead of going back via Panjim. This road goes into the interiors of Goa and is more hilly and scenic, and has less traffic. We stopped by a wayside vendor who was selling freshly cut cucumbers. He rubbed it with some red chilli powder and salt, and we ate it with the skin. It quenched our thirst and mitigated our hunger pangs for a while, till we reached Margao. We didn’t stop at any of the famous temples, though we passed close to Sri Mahalsa (Mardol), Sri Mangueshi (Priol) and Shantadurga (Kavlem) temples.

We were in Margao at 2pm and stopped for lunch at a newly opened restaurant called “Chilli-n-Spice”. We then filled petrol at the HP pump near the market, and had the stalling problem attended to by a mechanic in a lane nearby. He adjusted the screws on the carburettor and didn’t charge anything. It wasn’t a case of adulterated petrol as I had thought.

We then picked up some cashew nuts from the Margao market. Salted cashews were available for Rs.350/kg and broken cashews for around Rs.200/kg. This must be the best place to buy cashew nuts anywhere in India!

The roads in Margao still confuse me somewhat, with one way streets and circular roads going round and about, and I had some trouble finding the exit to Colva from the market. I could have taken the short-cut directly to Benaulim but wasn’t confident of finding that either. Finally we reached the Club Mahindra Resort at Varca around 4.30pm, and found a place for the car in their parking lot. We were taken to our room in a golf cart.

As soon as we were in the cool confines of our room it was as if we had been transported into a different world. The campus was like a tropical paradise and there are two large swimming pools. We were invited for an introduction and orientation at their ‘Tamara’ restaurant and were served complimentary snacks and coffee. The receptionist told us about the layout and facilities in the resort.

To go out for a walk on the beach one has to sign the security register. At the beach I was accosted by a hotel salesman who started to question me regarding my holiday details and filling up a form; and I had to rudely shoo him away.

Later in the evening we went for a walk outside the resort towards Varca village. There were at least three restaurants (shacks) within walking distance of ClubM and seemed to be open for business in the off season, with brightly lit decorative lights. We bought bread-butter-cheese from a store and returned to our room for dinner. We had Vinicola’s Port wine, cashews and TTK’s pre-cooked packet of mutter paneer with bread for dinner.



DAY 3: 31-July-2009. VARCA.

I was awake at 6.30am and had to immediately increase the temperature in the room. The temperature can be controlled to the nearest degree from 18C upwards. I raised it to 22C and that seemed quite comfortable. I was ready to jump into the swimming pool at 7.30am.

The pool was very clean though the depth seemed to be only 1 metre throughout, so no jumping or diving was allowed. The length was around 35 metres. There were only about three or four people and one kid in the water at this time in the morning. More people seemed to be interested in taking a walk on the beach. The sky was cloudy but it didn’t seem like it would rain.

Back in the room we had a breakfast of cheese-slice sandwiches, bread-butter and a cup of hot milk. We then left to do some shopping for groceries and to have lunch out at Martin’s Corner on Betalbatim beach. We stopped for shopping after Varca Church at a small super-market, and bought MTR’s mushroom-peas masala, veg biryani, and prawns balchow ready-to-eat packets.

We then drove on further north of Colva village, Sernabatim, passed Betalbatim, and Majorda till we reached Utorda beach. The famous ‘Zeebop-on-the-beach’ is supposed to be located here, just beyond Hotel Kenilworth. But all we could find was a beach restaurant by the name of “Island View”. We found Martin’s by 1.30pm and settled down for a cosy lunch. Being an off-season weekday it wasn’t very crowded. It’s not located exactly on the beach, and didn’t even have a sea view, but it had a nice Goan beach shack ambience. The structure was of bamboo and wood panels and plastic sheets were in place to prevent the rain coming in during the monsoons. Plastic chairs were provided for seating and the tables were covered with clean checked table cloths, with a single-stem rose on each table. Most importantly it didn’t have a 5-star air about it, though the prices were on the 3-star side. According to the restaurant manager, Sachin drops in only about once a year, but his parents visit more often as they have a bungalow nearby. There were snaps of other celebrities who had dropped by for a meal on the restaurant’s wall.

The restaurant was started by Mr. Martin in 1989, and was now being run by his three sons, one of whom was sitting on the next table. Late Mr. Martin’s photograph was on the wall next to the bar with a garland around it. We ordered fish tikka to go with my beer and Geeta’s sweet-lime soda. For the main course we had prawn curry rice and shark masala fry with garlic nan.

We had a two hour long siesta on reaching back to our cool room. In the evening we made ourselves some microwave pop-corn and ate it straight from the bag, followed by ‘Real’ apple juice. We then walked to the beach. It hadn’t rained the whole day and the climate was quite warm and humid. Instead of eating at one of the nearby shacks, we decided to have dinner in our kitchenette. After some wine and cashews, we opened the ready-to-eat packets which we had bought earlier and finished both. I increased the thermostat to 23⁰C before going to sleep.

DAY 4: 1-August-2009. VARCA.

I swam 40 lengths this morning to work up an appetite to make the most of our ‘Fun Dining’ experience today. ‘Fun Dining’ is when you pay for breakfast and lunch and/or dinner for that day’s buffet meals and you can hog as much as you want.

At breakfast I started with omelette bread, idli sambar, and sada dosa, and finished the meal with a bowl of fruit (papaya and pineapple) washed down with fresh watermelon juice. Geeta had paratha with aloo bhaji, croissants, cup cakes, dosa, watermelon juice and pineapple cooler.

After breakfast I went to meet Mr. McLoyd Vaz at ‘Holiday World’. He gave me all the updates of ClubM’s new resorts like Thekkady, Masinagudi, Tungi, and their plan to buy over Blue Country Resort at Panchgani. He also explained the benefits of being a Red member when it comes to booking RCI bonus holidays. Later we walked around the resort premises. We visited the souvenir shop, went to the beach and strolled around taking plenty of snaps.

We went for a late lunch at 2.45pm as our breakfast had still not been digested. For lunch we got Goan fish curry (Caldeen), mutton masala and rice, bhindi rechado, masala buttermilk, curd, dodol and bebinca (Goan sweet dishes), cheese cake and ice-cream. All this rich food made us so lethargic that we slept for 2 hours after lunch!

In the evening we strolled down to the beach and took some sunset snaps. We tried walking south along the beach towards Fatrade beach but couldn’t cross the rivulets of rain water flowing towards the sea.

Later we drove down to Colonia Jose Menino, which was about 7 km south of ClubM. The whole resort seemed dark and deserted with even the shops and restaurants closed for the season.

We had dinner and drinks in our cosy room. We had bought a bottle of Bacardi Breezer (cranberry and lime), but it was over too quickly so we supplemented it with some wine. Bread and butter was enough for dinner as we were still digesting our ‘fun’ lunch!

DAY 5: 2-Aug-2009. VARCA to RATNAGIRI.

Today was check-out day. After a long and luxurious swim (40 lengths) and relaxing in the jacuzzi, I was lazing in the pool for some more time and gazing expectantly at the dark clouds approaching from the sea. We had hardly had any rain in the last few days that we had been here. We finished off the remaining bread and butter for breakfast and started packing up. We checked out of our room at 11am and we were sad to leave after another nice holiday in Goa.

We departed at 11.15am and went via Colva, Margao, Panjim, Mapusa and up to Pernem non-stop. There at the last BPCL petrol pump inside Goa I topped up the fuel tank with 6.5 litres of ordinary petrol, as ‘Speed’ was not available. By 1.15pm we had reached Savantwadi and cruised on up to Kudal where we stopped at Hotel Raaj for lunch. This was the same hotel where we had stayed overnight on our first trip to Goa in 2001. We ordered bangda (mackerel) fry, and prawn curry rice with chapattis and the bill amounted to a modest Rs.117. I complimented the manager on the tasty Malwani fare. He was an old, friendly man and said that he had taken over the management of the restaurant only a month and a half back. There were placards saying ‘no smoking’ and ‘no alcohol’ in the restaurant. It was neat and clean with very clean washrooms.

It was 3pm and we were still 200 km away from Chiplun, our next destination. The road was quite winding and undulating, and it was impossible to keep a constant speed. I averaged around 60 to 70 km/hr, the speedometer indicating a top speed of 110 km/hr on the straight stretches. There were some potholes on the road but mostly they had been filled up with crushed brick so the ride wasn’t too bad. It rained intermittently but not very heavily.

By the time we reached Hathkhamba it was 5pm, so we decided to make a night halt at Ratnagiri. Chiplun was still about 80 km away and it would be dark by the time we reached there. I asked Geeta to look up Outlook Traveller’s “52 Weekend Breaks from Mumbai” and she called ahead while I drove. We decided to halt for the night at Hotel Landmark, which seemed reasonably priced at Rs. 1000 for a non a/c room. Kohinoor Samudra Resort seemed to be luxury resort and there was no point in spending Rs.3000 for a night halt.

Ratnagiri is famous for the king of fruits, the Alphonso Mango, and the route from the highway to the town was lined with hundreds of mango trees. Hotel Landmark was on Thibaw Palace Road and we reached there by 5.30pm. The second floor room was stuffy when we entered and had a damp musty smell. We opened the only window in the room and kept it open till sundown. After a cup of tea I went out walking and exploring.

Thibaw Palace and Thibaw Points are just a 5 minute walk away from the hotel. The palace was closed and had a run-down appearance. It seemed more like an oversize and dilapidated bungalow. The exiled King of Burma is supposed to have spent his last years here during British Raj days, gazing at the passing ships from Thibaw Point. The Point had a beautiful view of Ratnagiri harbour and the town in general. There was an enclosed amusement ground, and a look-out tower, playground and park for kids, and a series of fountains. There were chaat and snack stalls too. It seems that this is the favourite picnic spot and happening place for all of Ratnagiri, and being a Sunday there was quite a crowd of people of all ages enjoying their evening out. I took some snaps from the tower and was out in 15 minutes.

We went for dinner to Landmark’s a/c restaurant called “Hang-out”. The menu prices were on the high side, and service was slow. We had methi parathas, masala papad and a green salad. The we walked down to nearby dairy shop in a by-lane, where Geeta had hot milk and I had a bowl of shrikhand.

DAY 6: 3-August-2009. RATNAGIRI – CHIPLUN – KOYNA – PUNE.

We decided to leave as early as possible, but still it was not before 9.30am. For breakfast I had kanda poha and Geeta had sheera. Both the dishes were quite fresh and tasty. We washed it down with our room-made tea.

We arrived in Chiplun by 11am, taking an hour and fifteen minutes from Hathkhamba, going at 70 km/hr. We found the right turn to Karad after some enquiries and were soon climbing the ghats up to Koynanagar. The road was not as bad as I had feared and imagined it would be. It was quite motorable with only a few potholes on the way. We had to take a left turn to go to Koynanagar after reaching up.

 However, the resorts, Koyna Lake View (MTDC) and Gursale Resort, are located on top of a hill called Humbarli and this left turn was just before the ST bus stand. It was a narrow and very steep winding road of about 2 km and I had to do most of it in first gear. But the view from the top, of the lake and the dam, was a heavenly reward!

The rooms at MTDC Koyna Lake View had individual balconies overlooking the lake. But when we asked for lunch we were told that it would take an hour and a half to prepare! So we drove down to Gursale’s which had an equally spectacular view, though from a lesser height. However the rooms (tariff Rs.1200) did not have a balcony. We were welcomed with a cup of tea, and lunch was served in 45 minutes. Vegetarian thali cost Rs.75 each, with two vegetables, rice, dal, chapatti and papad.

We reached Patan in half an hour and after about 20 km more the road forked at the toll naka. We took the left turn and joined NH4 at Umbaraj. The right fork would have taken us to Karad. Soon we were speeding towards Pune and reached Kikvi around 5pm. The fuel indicator was touching red and I had to fill the tank with 26 litres. We had dosas and coffee at Kamat’s and were on our way again.

We were in Pune at 6.30pm after driving 1221 km to and from Goa. Main odometer reading was 55,555 at the finishing point!